Wednesday, January 30, 2013

This season: Retro in mint!

I'm home again from Alpharetta.  Today I went on a little expedition to the mall to scope out deals and find out what's in this season.  The new spring colors are fabulous!  Mint green is way in, and it's about time.  That's one of my favorite colors.  I also saw plenty of peachy pink, tangerine, and aqua.  It's clear we're all ready to get over the dark, drab winter looks of midwinter 2012 and into the fresh pastels of spring!  I'm very enthusiastic about it, especially since I just found a great mint green dress at Goodwill for $1.  With the right shrug, a slip, and the killer new shoes I bought today, I will rock that dress.

Speaking of the new shoes I bought today, I have a new favorite store at the mall.  Francesca's Collections at West Town Mall had an amazing selection of clearance items for half the marked price.  I bought a new pair of shoes, two new belts, and a hairband for $26!  The shoes were N.Y.L.A..  I'll try to take a picture so y'all can see how nice they are.  They're platform lace up booties in ivory.  I was amazed at my savings.

Francesca's had some ultra cute little mint dresses in various cuts, some of which recalled earlier times.  I'm going to have to go back soon to see if anything else goes on sale.

It's been an eventful day, and it's not even over yet.  :)

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Sales and vintage fashion

Since I was writing about sales on my toy blog, I thought I would share some of the applicable knowledge I have coming into my vintage shopping experience with you.  I'm going to address estate sales specifically here because I haven't encountered any special online sales on vintage fashion so far.

If you've never been to an estate sale before, here's some beginner's advice:  Research ahead of time.  Examine any pictures made available very carefully and look for clues about the location of the items your interested in.  Dress warmly.  Bring cash.  Bring shopping bags from home if they'll let you, it'll free up your hands. Come early, perhaps hours ahead of time.  Take a number when available.  Shop quickly and efficiently for the important must haves, and then scan for extras.  Double check that you're not missing anything.  Don't get carried away and overpay or by things you don't want or need.  Some estate companies price items higher than others, so be aware of which estate company is hosting the sale and get to know estate companies in your area.

Now, here's some specific details about shopping for vintage at estate sales.  Jewelry is likely to be in cases, typically close to the impromptu cash register.  The reasoning for this is that the dealer is rightly concerned about theft.  I've heard some terrible horror stories about jewelry thefts at garage and estate sales.  If jewelry is what you're interested in, be aware of where it's located and make those purchases first.  If you prefer and the sale allows it, you can ask them to hold pieces for you until you're ready to check out, but be aware that theft could occur if the item leaves a case.  Jewelry is likely to run more in the upper range of its value than the clothing is at estate sales, because jewelry has a higher perceived value than clothing, especially if the piece is signed and easily researched.

The same principles apply to clothing.  At estate sales, they're typically hung in bedroom and hall closets.  Now, here's a problem that vintage lovers are likely to run into at estate sales that is pretty unique.  Closets in old houses were typically pretty small, so there's only so much room in front of one for browsers.  If you want to look in a closet, be sure you're one of the first in the door, otherwise by the time you get your turn, your selections could be very picked over.  How competitive this is will depend on the area in which you live.  In my area, toy collectors and dealers are a rising trend, and that makes purchasing these items fairly competitive.  Vintage clothing has a different audience for the most part, but I've noticed several people trying to rifle through the same closet at the same time.  If you go to many sales, you're likely to get to know your competitors, and that'll give you an idea of what to expect from them.  Some of these people will eventually be your friends or friendly acquaintances, and some of them will be a discouraging sight.


Items like hats, gloves, and purses are typically located on top of furniture in the bedroom, this includes on the bed itself.  If those are the items you're looking for, go there first.  Coats may be in a hall closet.  Again, scrutinize pictures for exact locations.

Now, typically with vintage clothing, you're going to want to examine for condition, but if the prices are low enough, you'll be tempted to just grab a bunch of stuff and go.  You got step one right.  If you like it, hold on to it long enough to think it through.  This is where the shopping bags come in on small items.  Poke it in your shopping bag if it'll fit without risk of damage or serious wrinkling.  Clothing can become very heavy very fast, and awkward to hold on to, so be aware of this.  If an estate sale worker offers to put your items in a hold pile and you think you can trust them and the other shoppers, let them do it.  This will free up your hands, and free hands are key to staying ahead.  But be aware, someone may accidentally or intentionally purchase your items while you're looking around, so be vigilant.

Back to the condition issue.  Look at your items in the light of day before you purchase if you can.  The register is typically outside the garage, so you will likely be able to examine your purchases for common problems.  Use this opportunity to look for problematic stains, holes, rips, signs of knock offs and reproductions, loose seams, and other negative aspects that will dissuade you from making your purchase.  This information can change your impression of what you'd pay for your item or even whether you want it at all.

Make your final selections, pay, lock your items in your car, and then look again.  You never know what you might have missed.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Update from Beautiful Alpharetta Georgia

Just a little update to let you know I am not resting on my laurels.  I'm in the midst of reading another great resource to review!  I have several available to me here, although I'm out and about.  I'll also be comparing some similar books to help you make selections for your own reference.

When I get back, I have a few things I'd like to show you from my collection.  I may go shopping while I'm here as well.

You'll be hearing from me again soon.

Friday, January 4, 2013

Book Review: Fashions of a Decade: The 1920's


This book details not just the fashions of the 20's, but also the culture.  Some fashionable people of the time are woven into the information.  There are lots of pictures, both black and white and color illustrations.  I had no idea 20's styles could look so good!  I' in love with the Egyptian inspired brooch on page 47.  Menswear is covered as well as women's fashions.  A considerable portion of the book is dedicated to background information that helps explain the mentality of the times.

Although the 20's is not my favorite decade, the book did inspire some interest.  My take aways from this book were that I like Egyptian inspired jewelry, women wearing tailored menswear and 20's era hats.

Rating:  4 Stars.

Obtainable Designs: The Cloche Hat

If the 20's sound boring to you, and they certainly did to me at first, here's a little item that might change your mind.  Cloche hats!  Cloche hats can be used as part of the flapper look, but I think they'd make perfect everyday wear, especially in cold weather.  Here are some modern cloche hats:




 Here's a vintage one.

And another.

Cloche hats have a secret meaning related to the wearer's relationship status, as Jacqueline Harold wrote in Fashions of a Decade:  The 1920's.  An untied knot meant you were unmarried but in love.  A tied knot meant you were married.  And a flirty bow meant you were single.

Thrift finds: January 4th, 2013

So far, this blog has been rather lacking in pictures and individual fashions, but that's about to change!  Today, I made some great thrift purchases.  I won't show you the whole garments today, but I will give you a taste of what they look like.  We'll hold full photographs until I have a model on hand or something I can model myself.

Of these fashions, all of the jackets fit me well, but the skirts and dresses are a little snug.  I think they may fit soon, though, so I haven't lost hope.  One of the dresses needs restoration.

This is the dress that needs the most work.  It's by Roberta Lee.  The zipper has some issues, and it has a couple of tiny spots.  I believe the dress is from the 60's, if you think otherwise you could post in the comments and tell me about it.  It's very odd.  The fabric pattern reverses under the bust.



 The jacket that came with it also does interesting things at the pockets.


On to the next one!


This Good Times suit is very cute.  I don't know how old it is.  Maybe 80's?  It has very cute bows on it.  The buttons are large and white.  The jacket came with a plain navy pencil skirt.

Here's another cool dress.  I believe this dress by DBY is from the 80's, and it came with a suit jacket.


It has a cute bow detail under the bust area.

Lastly, there's this unmarked grey and pink (houndstooth? check?) dress.  It's adorable, but I don't know much about it.  It didn't come with a suit jacket.

I got an awesome deal on all of this at my local Goodwill.  Some of these items were very on sale, and of course the people who work there are always very nice to me.

I'll be doing more research on these outfits as I go along.  You may see these pop up with accessories on a model later.  :D  Until next time!

Vintage or Reproduction?

Before I got started collecting and wearing vintage clothing, I was faced with this question.  What exactly am I looking for?

My intent is to wear the clothes.  If I were interested in the garments for their value or their historical significance, the answer would be a little more clear.  I would under those circumstances only be interested in genuine vintage apparel of the top caliber.

But my intent to wear vintage styles muddies the question somewhat.  Reproductions are plentiful, beautiful, and come in a wide array of sizes.  Buying genuine vintage in person takes a lot of legwork and patience, and buying pieces online is complicated by sizing changes and size differences across cultures.  UK sizes are smaller than their US counterparts.  And that's in modern sizes.  In vintage sizes, the mess can become an ordeal without measurements given by the dealer.  To add to the frustration, people in the past wore smaller sizes than people do currently.  It may be hard to find today's size 14 among genuine vintage garments.  It certainly isn't impossible to find larger vintage fashions, but it is more difficult.

Reproductions can at times be more expensive than vintage pieces, so they aren't universally a good way to save money.  But they can certainly add modern sensibility and flare to a vintage wardrobe.  I'll post some reproduction fashions on my blog with reviews and look alike comparisons so you can get an idea of what I'm trying to achieve.

Book Review: Antique & Vintage Clothing A Guide to Dating & Valuation of Women's Clothing 1850-1940

This is beautiful, thoughtfully written book that would be well suited for those interested in Victorian, Edwardian, and early 20th century fashion.  I would particularly advise costume designers and steampunk enthusiasts to read this book.  It gives very specific information about which styles would be worn at which periods.  The author very clearly knows the material.

The book was published in 1997, which gives me some doubt as to the continuing validity of the price guide.  The combined factors of the economy, the aging of the fashions in question and the rise in interest Victorian clothing leads me to think that there would be wild fluctuation of value.  If a price guide is what you're looking for, this would be a very loose guideline to go by.  You may be better served by a newer guide.  I'm also curious that there are price estimates at all in this book, as I'm curious as to how many examples of any one of these dresses could exist.  Almost none are identified by a maker, designer or brand.  Surely any price guide would be a rough guideline at best.  But that's just my ham fisted judgement in trying to apply common sense to the issue.

I also think you're considerably less likely to find a dress from before 1900 today than you were in 1997.  As an antique dealer (also the daughter of an antique dealer), I can say with confidence that I've never seen one in such a place.  You're much more likely to find this sort of item in a specialty shop or an antique mall, and even then you're more likely to find objects made of less flimsy material than fabric.  The older an item is, the more likely it is to be damaged and destroyed.

Having said all of this, this book covers a period that is appealing but impractical for everyday fashions.  It isn't until chapter VI "The Flapper," which begins on page 74, that the book begins to cover fashions that could be worn today.  I consider the waistlines of this era unflattering.  The last period she covers is "The Depression Era," which covers the years 1930-1940 in ten pages.  Keep in mind, I'm looking for vintage clothing to wear, not to display.  This does not leave much room for objections of taste.  And, unfortunately, I haven't pulled any useful search terms out of those pages.

HOWEVER, there is some very useful information in Chapter XI, "Care and Restoration."  It's a very short chapter, but I think this information could be applied to any vintage fashion era.

Rating:  For my purposes (to purchase wearable vintage clothing), I give it 2 Stars.  If I needed information about costuming for steampunk or Victorian settings, I'd give it 4 Stars.  A beautiful book, and likely a good resource for someone who has occasion to wear elaborate Victorian, Edwardian, or roaring 20's dresses.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Design Icon: Jacqueline

For 50's and 60's shoes, one brand called itself the "prettiest shoes anywhere," and they may have been right!  In the 50's and 60's, Jacqueline made adorable formal and casual shoes.  Most examples I'm familiar with at this stage are pumps; the heels vary considerably.

What to look for:  Unique looking, flashy shoes.  I like Jacqueline's more chunky heel.  Jacqueline made shoes in suede and patent leather as well as metallic finishes, patterns and lace.  I particularly like the shades of red Jacqueline shoes were produced in, but of course they came in other colors.  I would avoid tans or extra pointy stilettos, but that's just a matter of my personal taste.

Vintage fashion and everyday life

There are some things in my past I wish I could forget, and fashion is no different.  I love vintage style, but for every diamond there are many pieces of coal.  You will inevitably find vintage pieces that you won't like.  It's amazing how some items become iconic pieces and others become laughably dated.  While it is amusing to own a genuine poodle skirt or leisure suit, these may not be everyday pieces for you.  Of course, these items aren't eliminated from consideration for everyday wardrobe, it really does depend on what you're trying to achieve.

Here's some practical advice:

1.)  Buy clothes because you like them, not just because you've found them.

2.)  Think about when you'll wear this garment.  Is it a formal piece or something casual?  Can you wear it to work or is it only for social affairs?

3.)  Consider whether this is an item you can mix into your current wardrobe or whether you will need to buy other items to make it work.

4.)  Think about why you're making this purchase.  Are you buying an item intending to wear it or as a collectible?

5.)  Is this a classic, or is it just old?

6.)  Be honest.  Is it ugly?  Buying it because it's a hideous conversation piece is awesome, but it might be better to frame it and hang it up than wear it.

Design Icon: Jantzen swimwear

Examining the vintage ads from 50's Fashion Vintage Fashion and Beauty Ads, one early standout brand was Jantzen. As I write this entry, it is mid January, so tropical locations and adorable bathing suits are a welcome fantasy.  Vintage swimwear had not occurred to me as a practical option for my collection, but Jantzen has shown me the error of my ways.

Jantzen is a swimwear company that is still around today.  While my general inclination is toward a vintage look, it is possible to buy Jantzen swimwear new.  This is extra convenient, because vintage sizes are significantly smaller than their modern counterparts.  Modern Jantzen also makes plus size swimwear. 

I am inclined to shy away from the more modern two pieces in favor of a modest one piece design.  Most of the modern Jantzen pieces do not have the dramatic vintage design aesthetic I am going for.  The ad describes the Jantzen look as "torso-oh" and its methods as "shapemakery." The prettiest of all the vintage Jantzen looks of the 50's was called "fine line."  I haven't seen any examples floating around for sale online currently.

Although I did find this dishy little number on Etsy today.


Etsy 50s Pinup Perfection Ruched Cherry Embroidery Jantzen Swimsuit

What to look for:  Great Jantzen swimsuits are available in a variety of cuts and fabric patterns.  The company has been making swimsuits since the early part of the 20th century, so Jantzen swimsuits can add authenticity to vintage wardrobes of many decades.  If you're looking for a great 50's look for any swimsuit, have a look at the cut, color and pattern.  Some key design elements would be gingham, cherry, or polka dot fabrics like those you might see in a vintage pinup illustration.  Ruched swimsuits seem to have been pretty common at that time.  The great Etsy example I've linked to is a convertible swimsuit.  The straps change from halter top to cross back.  When you're shopping for vintage Jantzen online, remember that sizes have changed, and you should go by measurements rather than modern sizes.

Even if vintage swimsuits aren't for you, they do give some inspiration for what to look for in a modern swimsuit for a vintage chic look.

Book Review: 50's Fashion Vintage Fashion and Beauty Ads

50's Fashion:  Vintage Fashion and Beauty Ads was edited by Jim Heimann in 2007.
The Nitty Gritty:

This book is a collection of advertising images from the 1950's.  There are both menswear and women's fashions included.  The images are in original full color, and they're every bit as appetizing today as they were when they were printed.  To the vintage style consumer, the images are very informative, more so than any modern book on vintage style I've come across so far.  The illustrations and photographs tell you much more than they were originally intended to say.  Not only do they tell you the name brand of the shirt you may want to buy (which is very useful for internet searches), they also tell you which accessories to pair with it for an authentic 50's look.

I originally checked this book out of the local library, but it is a definite must purchase.  The book would be very useful for vintage fashionistas as well as costume designers who want to pursue a truly authentic look.

The book has mediocre reviews on Amazon, so I'll address the concerns of the other customers.  One customer received a book in poor condition, which is hardly a flaw in the book's contents.  Another expected more of the book to be about women's fashions.  There is quite a bit of space devoted to menswear in the book.  Quite a few of the lady's fashions are underwear and swimwear.  That said, I still think this is an amazing resource if you can get it for the right price.  It seems to be a somewhat rare book.

Rating:  5 Stars

Mission statement: Day 1

I've heard people say that you should write about what you know.  Today I've decided to start writing about what I've learned.  Recently, I've developed an acute interest in vintage designs, particularly from the 40's, 50's and 60's.

What Jane Wears is going to be a style blog about the retro look.  I will review books about vintage fashion.  I will write about designers that cannot be missed and post links to help you find them.  I will attempt online tutorials on hair and makeup and I may post pictures of how my attempt turned out.  I will post pictures of clothes I have purchased.  I will share tips and tricks I learn along the way.  I may occasionally try to show you some fandom or celebrity looks I come across.

I hope you enjoy reading about my vintage fashion journey.